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Play with your food: The Frozen S’more

By Nick Wuest,
ICC Pastry Arts student
(read more about Nick)

Something I’ve learned in my life is that the one thing more popular than S’mores is the idea of S’mores. I’ve seen it more times than I can count; someone brings the ingredients, that intrepid individual maybe even gets a few made, but before long everyone is forgoing the toasting and just snacking on grahams, marshmallows, and chocolate. Let’s face it after cramming your face full of BBQ and beer they’re a hassle.

I set out to simplify the S’more with an incredibly convoluted process…you heard me. So in honor of Memorial Day Weekend – the unofficial official start of BBQ season (aka the best season) – here is The Frozen S’more.

Special Equipment:

  • Metric kitchen scale
  • Glass or enamel casserole dish
  • Two-bowl ice bath
  • Ice cream maker/machine
  • Stand mixer w/ paddle attachment
  • Tamis (drum sieve)
  • Chinois (cone strainer)
  • 2.5 – 3″ round cookie cutter – I used a mason jar lid
  • Silicone baking mats
  • Small food chopper or food processor

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Toasted Marshmallow Ice Cream

For the uninitiated making custard can be tough because of its extreme sensitivity to temperature. Be sure to have everything ready, otherwise known as mise en place, to facilitate a more fluid transition between steps.

  • 175g mini marshmallows
  • 150g egg yolks
  • 166g raw sugar
  • 1 Cup whole milk
  • 2 Cups heavy cream
  • 1 tsp vanilla paste
  • heavy pinch of salt

Broil marshmallows in casserole dish at 350, stirring each time the top begins to brown, until the entire mixture is an even golden brown. As the mixture begins to appear mostly browned begin warming the milk, cream, and vanilla in a small saucepan over medium heat to just below a simmer. Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large bowl to thicken. Remove the marshmallow from the oven and give it a stir. Pour the hot milk/cream into a spouted container and gently whisk it into the eggs to temper them (make sure not to go too fast to avoid curdling the yolks). Strain the egg-cream mixture through the tamis into a larger saucepan. Add the marshmallow paste. There may be hard clumps of toasted marshmallow initially; they will dissolve for the most part. Cook the custard gently over medium heat (set up a bowl in an ice bath around here), stirring briskly to break up the marshmallow, until steaming and thick enough to coat a wooden spoon (a clear will remain if you run your finger through the coat). Strain the custard through the chinois into the ice bath, stir in a heavy pinch of salt and cool until warm. Chill 7-24 hours (this custard is so front loaded with sugar that there are no complex flavors like vanilla that need to bloom overnight).

Process in an ice cream machine and spread in a pan lined heavily with plastic wrap. Wrap it all up and press it mostly even. Freeze until hard enough to cut out with cookie cutter.

Photo Aug 24, 2 57 12 PM

Triple Chocolate Cookies

I’m wandering in the Guy Fieri zone with these and if the results weren’t so delicious I’d hate myself a lot more. The marshmallow ice cream is potent so I wanted a cookie rich enough to not get buried under it. Cocoa powder and two types of chocolate did the job. Just make a dentist appointment now and save yourself the trouble.

  • 190g all purpose flour
  • 48g unsweetened Dutch process cocoa powder
  • 2.3g baking soda
  • 3g kosher salt
  • 134g dark brown sugar
  • 104g sugar
  • 12g unsulfered molasses
  • 167g unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 60g eggs
  • 110g 70% cacao chocolate, chopped roughly into 3/8″ pcs
  • 110g semi-sweet chocolate chips

Sift flour, cocoa powder, and baking soda into a large bowl, whisk in salt. Stir sugars and molasses together in a small bowl. Strain chocolate chunks to remove tiny pieces, mix chunks with the chips.

Cream butter in stand mixer with paddle at medium-low until soft peaks just begin to form. Mix in the sugar/molasses until fluffy, scrape down sides and bottom of bowl. Add eggs at low to just combine, scrape bowl. Add flour mix in 2 batches at low, scraping bowl each time. Add chocolate and pulse to combine. Scrape and stir by hand one final time. Chill dough 20 minutes.

Heat oven to 350. Line baking sheets with silicone mats or parchment paper. Spoon rough ~1″ balls spaced 2″ apart onto sheets. Bake 14-16 minutes. The cookies are so dark and so gooey you won’t be able to tell by sight or a toothpick test that they are done. At around the 15-minute mark you will however smell it. Just trust yourself, when they smell done they’re done. Cool cookies in pan on a wire rack until they’re warm then remove them from the pan and cool them completely on the rack.

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Graham Crumble

  • 9 graham crackers, broken up
  • 5 Tbsp butter, melted and cooled slightly
  • 3 Tbsp sugar

Heat oven to 350.

Chop crackers in food processor until mostly fine. Add butter and sugar and process to incorporate. Pour evenly into small pan. Bake 15-18 minutes until browned and fragrant. Let cool. Pound into mostly fine crumble in plastic bag, return to small baking pan for assembly.

Assembly

Select two cookies of similar size. Cut out an ice cream round and gently form it onto one cookie. Place the second on top. Sprinkle the graham crumble along the rim.

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This is a great project to take on for practicing fine temperature control and sharp mise en place, which are especially important in pastry arts. It is not however great for practicing self control around food and I apologize in advance for the amount of sandwiches you will eat but hey “no retreat, no regrets”.

Stay hungry,

Nick

This recipe was originally published on Fill Your Plate.